(Feature story from the Field Book Issue 1)

The Alpkäserei Gerschnialp cheese dairy is situated at an altitude of 1,252 metres, on a plateau just below the legendary Laub ski run. Here, local Sälmi Töngi produces 30 tonnes of cheese every summer, with the varieties made including Alp cheese, raclette, Mutschli, ricotta, and goat cheese.

His signature product, however, is Sbrinz, a very hard cheese that’s only produced in central Switzerland. The historical roots of this cheese reach back several centuries before the birth of Christ. Today, Sbrinz is grated on top of local dishes such as Älplermagronen, or enjoyed on its own, served thinly sliced and paired with a nice glass of white wine. The taste is unique, and the aroma is slightly spicy.

“Sbrinz is a sensitive cheese to make- It takes a lot of heart and soul. But if you do it the right way, it turns into something special,” says Töngi.

This is a labour of love, and a communal effort, in which the local farmers deliver milk from cows that graze the nearby pastures, eating nothing but hay, grass, and herbs all summer long. This fact gives the Gerschnialp version of Sbrinz a slightly softer texture, a quality that has made Töngi’s cheese famous throughout Switzerland. Töngi even has a special aging room he uses exclusively for Sbrinz, where he keeps the humidity low to ensure that the end product will be truly perfect. 

Töngi, now in his sixties and sporting a huge trademark moustache, spends 15 hours a day on his feet, producing cheese, all summer long. This is undeniably hard work, but it’s also extremely rewarding.  

“This job is the most beautiful thing I can imagine. I live up here in total freedom,” Töngi reflects.

The cheeses from Alpkäserei Gerschnialp are sold directly to consumers at the dairy, and in a few select locations in the town of Engelberg. 

When winter returns to the valley, Töngi closes down his cheese production for a few months. The cows return to the valley, and he goes to work for the mountain rescue service at Mt Titlis instead. He never leaves his beloved mountain. 

His cheeses, on the other hand, can be enjoyed all year round.